富平童年乡愁：撅苜蓿
<section style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: normal; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><section><p style="margin: 15px 0px 5px; text-align: center;"><strong><span style="color: rgb(64, 118, 0); font-size: 24px;">富平童年乡愁：撅苜蓿</span></strong><span style="color: rgb(64, 118, 0); font-size: 24px;"></span></p><section style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">文<span style="letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: 宋体; font-size: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">■</span>彭辉</span></section><section style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br></span></section><section><section><section><section><section><section><br></section><section><section><section><p style="margin: 5px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;">时值春分，我漫步在莲花池公园，望着泛绿的柳枝和嫩嫩的青草，就想起了家乡的苜蓿，此时大概也能撅着吃了吧！</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;"><br></span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; text-align: center; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;"><img class="rich_pages" style="text-align: center; white-space: normal;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQn81AzRJRnicl1BuhPUeHTCkUfET21sIpiaNtJ6aVwxksmvNQ1u1BAG8X3hZicYxRlSP2nDdQ268W7PQ%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="300" data-type="jpeg" data-s="300,640" data-ratio="0.7233333333333334"></span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; text-align: center; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><br></p></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><section style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: normal; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;">苜蓿俗称“三叶草”，大概是在西汉张骞出使西域之后传入中原地区的。明代著名医学家李时珍《杂记》中说∶“苜蓿原出大宛，汉使张骞带归中国。然今处处田野有之，陕、陇人亦有种者，年年自生。”东晋道家、医学家葛洪《西京杂记》云∶“乐游苑多苜蓿，风在其间，常萧萧然，日照其花有光采，故名怀风，又名光风，茂陵人谓之连枝草。”【集解】宗说：“（苜蓿）陕西甚多，用饲牛马，嫩时人兼食之。有宿根，刈讫复生。” 苜蓿是多年生开花植物，既耐旱耐寒耐热，又能改良土壤，生长茂盛产量高，最适合做牲畜饲料。人食之可“清脾胃、清湿热、利尿、消肿、防出血”。</span></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><br></p></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin: 5px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><img style="width: 578px; height: 434px;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQn81AzRJRnicl1BuhPUeHTCkxiboEm0hBaaOJgoO8409QVOhg71XCgpI38rWAiaXCshxB8v7hRnjdSIw%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="1080" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.75" data-cropsely2="289" data-cropsely1="0" data-cropselx2="578" data-cropselx1="0"></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: normal; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><img class="rich_pages" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQn81AzRJRnicl1BuhPUeHTCke2lpE1via0TPy9PQWOQ5xVSLEQyEehZH6JbBxNbPWbsWRCt0I6S3plA%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="600" data-type="jpeg" data-s="300,640" data-ratio="0.8683333333333333"></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><br></p><section style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: normal; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;">我的家乡在关中渭北富平县顺阳河流域。有生产队那会儿，各村都种着一大片苜蓿地。我队里的饲养室养着很多秦川牛，东涧上也种了几十亩苜蓿，是专门用来喂牲口的。从苜蓿刚露出嫩芽起，队里就派有专人看管，防止村里人偷着撅苜蓿。到了春分前后，苜蓿地里的嫩苜蓿芽长得绿格莹莹的，弥漫着青涩诱人的清香。那年月人们日子过得惜惶，每年到二三月里，家家粮食就接不上茬了，乡亲们就开始在麦田里剜野菜充饥。生产队的苜蓿地偶尔也开放一两回，村里的老汉老婆小伙姑娘媳妇娃娃们，提了条子笼或是拿着尿素袋，一溜带串的蜂拥向东涧苜蓿地。鲜嫩的苜蓿象绿地毯一样铺满了田野，用手一把一把的撅，霎时就手染成了黄绿色。</span></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><br></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img style="width: 527px; height: 293px;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQnRvdMUamYZWdmDrxP4vDmsYsRvU6oW7uHrmT2PHvW4oLVegyLQVOFnIiaODPcgBjicfRMp2KQfdx0w%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="637" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.5557299843014128" data-cropy2="354.157495256167" data-cropy1="0" data-cropx2="637" data-cropx1="0" data-croporisrc="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/icukl6DVUWQnRvdMUamYZWdmDrxP4vDmsyxOW867oS8qdEeyTbp9u62lCPhF43NXZWWQGrbGMM9UsqrK3Ty2QWA/0?wx_fmt=jpeg"></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><br></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;">但这还是填不饱肚子，村里人偷着去外村“撅苜蓿”。夜深人静时分，就有了轻轻的叩门声，邻家婶婶悄声说“走”，门里说“走”，便提着布袋出了门。堡西埝下早已拥了黑压压的一簇人，一个壮汉压低声儿问：“都来了么？”另一个小伙四下望了望，说：“该来的都来了。”壮汉说：“走！”一簇人顺着埝下凹凸不平的田垄，深一脚浅一脚的向西移去。过了蔡阳河再往西，埝上头有一片苜蓿地。一簇人在埝下纥蹴着，我分明看见几个婶婶冻得直哆嗦，其实夜并不冷。壮汉和几个小伙悄悄的爬上埝，看看四下没动静，向埝下一招手。一簇人便拥上苜蓿地，手忙脚乱如惊鸿般的“撅苜蓿”。天上没有月亮，星星眨着眼睛，人们谁也不说话，静谧的夜里一片“嚓嚓嚓”的响声。忽听远处有人大声吼：“啊！谁在兀哒偷苜蓿哩？嗯！”苜蓿地北头就有了影影绰绰的两个人影。一簇人“哗”地四散开去，溜下坡顺埝底下跑了。那年月人都吃不饱咯，偷着“撅苜蓿”绝非个别现象。看苜蓿的人也是饿着肚子的，知道“撅苜蓿”的人都过的惜惶，只是咋唬的吼叫，并不追赶。听说河西里有一帮人黑来去“撅苜蓿”，看苜蓿的人猛然一吼，竞有个婆娘失脚跌进了一人多深的井坑里。</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><br></p></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin: 5px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><img style="width: 578px; height: 396px;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQn81AzRJRnicl1BuhPUeHTCkiaT9FjmuPQfCPfbwjta7iaEJVgsH1wzyS94aicEG8hHR2bmfFWa1rLlvw%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="640" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.684375" data-cropsely2="434" data-cropsely1="0" data-cropselx2="578" data-cropselx1="0"></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><br></p><section style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: normal; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;">苜蓿可是好东西，百吃不厌。妈和婆把苜蓿摊开，择去枯草，用清水淘洗干净，控去水搅入面粉，团成“菜疙瘩”，放入笼屉蒸熟，揭开笼盖，绿“菜疙瘩”就变成了黄褐色。婆用蒜罐把大蒜捣成蒜泥，再调入油泼辣子和酸醋，制成“酸辣蒜水”。用碗盛了“菜疙瘩”，浇上酸辣蒜水，吃到口里香得很么！苜蓿菜还可以蒸“苜蓿麦饭”，在滤去水的苜蓿里拌入面粉，用量比蒸“菜疙瘩”要多一些，面粉少了“苜蓿麦饭”不易成型。将拌好面粉的苜蓿摊在笼屉里，大火烧开锅约三十分钟左右，“苜蓿麦饭”就蒸熟了。盛入碗内拌些葱花，再调上少许辣子蒜水，吃起来相当可口。最好是韭菜葱花，味道更香。家里有时也用苜蓿蒸“菜卷子”，在盆里和好面，摊在案上擀开，将切碎的苜蓿菜均匀撒在面皮上，卷成一根长条，再用菜刀切成三四指宽的菜卷，一层面皮一层苜蓿菜，形如圆轱辘，老家把这叫“菜轱辘”。用锅蒸熟，吃法和菜团子一样。我小时候和堂哥放学回家，妈在锅上的笼屉里热着“菜轱辘”，我和堂哥用碗盛了，或浇上酸辣蒜水，或干脆啥都不搁，一样香喷可口好吃，更能抵饥。早饭踅面粥粥时，搁一两把碎苜蓿，叫做“苜蓿粥粥”，非常好喝。中午吃汤面，锅里也是搁着绿苜蓿菜的。</span></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><br></p></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin: 5px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><img src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQnRvdMUamYZWdmDrxP4vDmsnScm6hKSkfce5kJvFzFN5ia870y2amRkzIibV24Y9NcVeGIOk2h36HPw%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="500" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.392"></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><br></p><section style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: normal; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><section><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;">那时候村里家家都有一个酸菜老瓮，是用来涡酸菜的。首次涡酸菜是要往老瓮里添一盆浆水的，浆水豆腐坊有，是老浆水。老家人不用卤水点豆腐，更不用石膏。随着季节变换，老瓮里或是刺蓟酸菜，或萝卜缨酸菜，或是白菜帮酸菜等。有了苜蓿，老瓮里自然就涡了苜蓿酸菜。家里每次吃面条的时候，都要往老瓮里添几瓢热面汤的，这样浆水味更浓，酸菜更香。乡下收麦季节，人们喜欢吃浆水面，既凉爽可口，又清热解暑。在麦场里吆喝着牛碾麦的人口渴了，也是到我家舀一碗浆水喝的，既解渴又解乏。要说这酸菜么，我觉得还是苜蓿酸菜最好吃。家里一日两餐，饭桌上始终是有一大黄盘子苜蓿酸菜的。妈从老瓮里捞出苜蓿酸菜，用刀切了挤去水，盛入大黄盘，撒些辣子面、食盐和花椒末，用铁勺把菜籽油在灶火里烧热，往酸菜盘里“滋啦”一泼，用筷子调和匀，味道香得很！</span></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><br></p></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin: 5px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><img style="width: 554px; height: 393px;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQn81AzRJRnicl1BuhPUeHTCk1YswEDA4giaqgicGeMGFvZ9xOj7E2uf0R3zyVPXYSgwMGbLlFXicGuACg%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="554" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.7093862815884476" data-cropsely2="393" data-cropsely1="0" data-cropselx2="554" data-cropselx1="0"></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><br></p><section style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: normal; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><section><section><section><section><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;">在那尘封已久的岁月里，苜蓿不但养活了耕牛，而且还富膳了饥肠辘辘的村民。苜蓿伴随我走过了难忘的童年，留在我心中的，是永远眷恋着的乡愁。</span></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 宋体, SimSun; font-size: 16px;"><img style="width: 578px; height: 413px; letter-spacing: 2px; white-space: normal;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQn81AzRJRnicl1BuhPUeHTCkaS02Kic3kyRk0SJAkgVqribZ4c9AKIFt4BIqqI97loZC9Wt6snicFicwIA%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="600" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.7133333333333334" data-cropsely2="434" data-cropsely1="0" data-cropselx2="578" data-cropselx1="0"></span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; text-align: center;"><img class="rich_pages" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQn81AzRJRnicl1BuhPUeHTCkXQJAwNOE3p66ztJVWjAwNpWOJ3Fp3OYRtK6gO0SVmGata3czuApcfQ%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="1024" data-type="jpeg" data-s="300,640" data-ratio="0.6669921875"></p></section></section></section></section></section><p style="margin: 5px 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: 2px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><span style="color: rgb(136, 136, 136); font-size: 14px;">（2016.03.20夜写于北京莲花池畔）</span></p>
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