乡愁 | 辣 子 夹 锅 盔
<section style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: normal; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;" data-style-id="26234" data-support="96编辑器"><section><section><section><p style="margin: 5px 0px; text-align: center;"><strong><span style="font-size: 20px;">锅 盔 往 事</span></strong><span style="font-size: 20px;"></span><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br>作者：海棠雨</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px;"><br></p><section data-style-id="24505" data-support="96编辑器"><section style="text-align: center; margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px;"><section style="display: inline-block;"><section style="display: flex; transform: rotateZ(0deg); justify-content: center; align-items: center;"><section style="border-radius: 50%; width: 10px; height: 10px; box-sizing: border-box; background-color: rgba(168, 212, 230, 0.97);"><br></section><section style="padding: 2px 15px; border-radius: 8px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; font-size: 16px; margin-right: 5px; margin-left: 5px; box-sizing: border-box; background-color: rgba(168, 212, 230, 0.97);"><span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255); letter-spacing: 2px;"><strong><span style="font-size: 18px;">辣子夹锅盔</span></strong></span></section><section style="border-radius: 50%; width: 10px; height: 10px; box-sizing: border-box; background-color: rgba(168, 212, 230, 0.97);"><br></section></section></section><section style="margin-top: -15px; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center;"><section style="border-radius: 8px 0px 0px 8px; width: 30.67px; height: 200px; box-sizing: border-box; background-color: rgb(255, 226, 105);" data-width="4%"><br></section><section style="padding: 20px 15px 15px; width: 705.62px; box-sizing: border-box; box-shadow: 0px 0px 5px rgb(117,117,117); background-color: rgb(254, 254, 254);" data-width="92%"><section><section style="padding-top: 5px; box-sizing: border-box;"><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img style="width: auto; display: block;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQnEpn23WEBaxvP26PJ2Ips0lRlBoL7bMnqqQdh0aOJibYAHEX51ibnuAnbbibnCmKpcIP6pV9gvukjlA%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="400" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.71"></p></section></section><section style="margin-top: 5px; margin-bottom: 5px;"><p style="margin: 5px 0px; text-align: left; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 14px;">对一个地道的陕西楞娃来说，吃饭要是少了辣子，那就是一种折磨。对一个久居闹市、身处异地的关中游子来说，白米洋面的滋润，终抵不过蒸馍锅盔来的实在。令我至今牵念的，就是一道最淳朴的乡间美食——辣子夹锅盔。</span></p></section></section><section style="border-radius: 0px 8px 8px 0px; width: 30.67px; height: 200px; box-sizing: border-box; background-color: rgb(156, 219, 223);" data-width="4%"><br></section></section></section></section><section data-style-id="20221" data-support="96编辑器"><section style="margin: 10px 76.68px; width: 613.59px; text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box;" data-width="80%"><section style="vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" style="vertical-align: middle; max-width: 100%; box-sizing: border-box;" viewBox="0 0 904.8 93.1" x="0px" y="0px" width="904.8"><g style="box-sizing: border-box;"><path style="box-sizing: border-box;" fill="rgb(129, 201, 208)" d="M 152.2 63.2 c -17.4 4.8 -20.6 8.7 -24.5 29.9 c -3.9 -21.2 -7.1 -25.1 -24.5 -29.9 c 17.4 -4.8 20.6 -8.7 24.5 -29.9 C 131.6 54.5 134.8 58.4 152.2 63.2 Z" /><path style="box-sizing: border-box;" fill="rgb(207, 241, 237)" d="M 27.4 56.9 c -9.7 2.7 -11.5 4.8 -13.7 16.7 c -2.2 -11.8 -4 -14 -13.7 -16.7 c 9.7 -2.7 11.5 -4.8 13.7 -16.7 C 15.9 52 17.7 54.2 27.4 56.9 Z" /><path style="box-sizing: 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src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_gif%2FLjib4So7yuWjMmvicZOaOiczFTGIemdvBHByh8XicgZibRzl86ASB1WqxzkBkZ88aBA37E3gbtqiavdib3XsqFqQhgibfA%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dgif" data-w="116" data-type="gif" data-ratio="0.27586206896551724"></p></section><section style="padding: 15px; border-radius: 8px; border: 4px solid rgb(174, 226, 234); margin-top: -22px; box-sizing: border-box;"><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">我有过端着一碗南国河粉，却想念北方蘸水面的经历，也有过品着一盘西式蛋挞，却怀念辣子夹馍的感受。所以说，在特定的环境里，人的思维对自己的饮食还是有着固守的选择，只是有时候太过无奈而已。因为人要活着，就得吃饭，吃不到想吃的，那就必须用其他的食物来填充肚子。这个年代，人不至于饥不择食，也不至于胡吃海喝，挨饿的日子早已远离，养生的热潮又正在盛行。为了生存，不管处于何地，现代人基本都能坦然的面对各种吃食，进而接纳摄入。唯独这不受桎梏的思想，偏偏会时不时地想起那些刻进骨子里的美食，怀旧，应该是每个人的自由和权力。</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img style="width: 540px; height: 340px;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQnEpn23WEBaxvP26PJ2Ips0h1QeQA1WIbCMTywpA76kowzfkfiam03G4ZVvZzZl4WPlVSBQWB9TbBQ%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="1024" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.62890625" data-cropy2="644.7407407407408" data-cropy1="0" data-cropx2="1024" data-cropx1="0" data-croporisrc="https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/icukl6DVUWQnEpn23WEBaxvP26PJ2Ips0a8HMxRWB9mMJgtJ910O0LykDEBK9AhpsBlqNITzqCPcprIQqnLBcbQ/0?wx_fmt=jpeg"></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">我也不例外，每当食欲不佳，肠胃挑剔的时候，就会拼命地想念“辣子夹锅盔”的味道。辣子，要刚摘回的新鲜的尖椒，而且最好是红绿相间的那种，这样凉拌起来视觉感会更好。切碎了配上鲜姜末蒜末，撒上五香粉，泼上自制的菜油，再调上些农家香醋，那才叫辣的过瘾，香的醇厚；而锅盔，一定要大铁锅烙的那种，两面澄黄，外焦里酥，木头锅板（锅盖）一捂，锅沿边围上一圈笼布，悠悠的香气还是会偷偷地从缝隙里溢出，灶底下烧的是麦秸柴火，那原始的烟火气息，让人想起来都觉得很美。</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img style="text-align: center;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQmlYH0RsQ3SbjX6icYe5cDGIQia6Qfnt3j3ia7WV0rpLTgsQ8wzK8u6v7WTuOkaAto83pQQKVULx3q7Q%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="600" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.6666666666666666"></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">辣子这盘菜人人熟知，而且大都会做。可是大铁锅里烙锅盔，不见得会是每个家庭主妇的特长，和面发面要讲究软硬适中，烙的时候更要掌握好火候和焪的技巧。焪锅盔需要耐心，那样才能里外熟透，香味沁人。一说起吃的就想起了妈，一想起妈就想起了家，在我的记忆里，吃自家大锅里烙的锅盔，那都是很久以前的事了。改革开放初期，正值我的童年，农村商店稀有，粮食也不宽裕，零食更为短缺。面对着营养不良，正在成长的我们，母亲极尽所能，用仅有的食物，变换着花样为她的孩子们改善伙食。在她的眼里手里，用玉米面小麦粉合成的两搅面，就可以做出数种饭食。母亲烙的两搅面锅盔，就是我们姊妹几个的最爱。人都说鸡屁股底下有银行，可是相对于需要营养的孩子们，母亲还是会忍痛割爱。烙锅盔的时候，她会特意从储藏起来的鸡蛋罐子里取出两枚来，打碎了揉进面里，再加进去一把切得细碎的花椒叶，说是为了提味。那时候，我不懂母亲精打细算过日子的艰难，脑子里只惦记着这难得的吃食。锅盔烙熟后，母亲会把它切成细条，晾凉了装进一个缝好的紧口布袋里，挂在房间的箱子架上，以便于清早晚上，让它充当我们的“点心”。而家里的大人们，却从来不会去触碰这装锅盔的布袋。</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQmlYH0RsQ3SbjX6icYe5cDGIB2DWma0mviamRtlDInsETB8JDqseaofACC2XxvmlCjhicHxSN7WpkO7w%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="640" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.75"></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">现在想想，有多少孩子的成长，都与这大锅里的锅盔有着不解之缘。从我知事起，我的婶娘，她也在默默地奉行着自己的“锅盔母爱”。堂哥上高中了，每到周六下午，婶娘的灶房里便会烟熏火燎，她要为儿子备好一周的干粮，而锅盔耐储存不易变味，无疑是上好的选择。头一天里，烙好几个厚厚地大锅盔，要赶在第二天中午堂哥上学前晾凉装好。在有学子的家庭，烙锅盔，切咸菜，似乎成了每个母亲每周必行的公事。操持了几十年家务的婶娘，自然有了一套摸索出来的做饭经：搅团要好，七十二搅；锅盔要quan（香），三翻六转。这些诀窍，我琢磨了多年也不得要领。至今，每每想起母亲和婶娘，脸上流着汗水，肩头上搭着毛巾，围在锅沿边翻锅盔的情景，我都会打心底里生出敬意。普天之下，有多少朴素而伟大的母亲们，像她们一样，用最平凡的方式，诠释着对子女最深沉的爱······</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img style="width: 562px; height: 405px;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQnEpn23WEBaxvP26PJ2Ips0PH0BiaeicPMSzmMFQ1rhkyyiciakay4jFYYsQwuAvrlC4TicKTThJMD6Q2Q%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="894" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.7203579418344519" data-cropsely2="405" data-cropsely1="0" data-cropselx2="540" data-cropselx1="0"></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">成年后，不会在大锅里烙锅盔的我，对于锅盔的向往，只能是望洋兴叹了。电饼档里做出来的锅盔，终究少了久违的烟火气息，用来充饥尚可，却不能解馋。人一旦没了指望，那份炽热的想念就会趋于平静。于是，当锅盔的味道在心底氤氲升腾，我边学会了用理性来克制它的诱惑，探究锅盔的渊源，也成了消除锅盔神秘感的一种方法。</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img style="width: 500px; height: 333px;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQnEpn23WEBaxvP26PJ2Ips09WK1l4lSLul2iaYicDNag2lDg7N8XVbRxAzh8yiaa6VwwlTunkmEIQ7Kg%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="540" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.6666666666666666" data-cropsely2="329" data-cropsely1="0" data-cropselx2="500" data-cropselx1="0"></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">关于锅盔的起源传说，版本多的五花八门，而我唯喜这一段三国时期的故事：话说当年，诸葛亮初出茅庐，设计火烧博望坡，直杀得曹军横尸遍野，仓皇溃逃。得了博望城之后，五虎上将关羽领兵驻守。那时正值秋旱，城内地势高而水位低，众将士饮水造饭十分困难，于是怨言四起，军心不稳。关羽急得火烧火燎，连夜修书请诸葛亮下令退兵。博望属军事要地，怎能轻易弃城撤军？冥思苦想一夜之后，诸葛亮终于想出了办法，忙派人飞书给关羽。关羽拆信观之，见军师所示如下：“用干面，渗少水，和硬块，锅炕之，食为馈，饷将士，稳军心”。于是，关羽赶紧派人依照此法制作馈饼，而这馈饼做成后大如盾牌，吃起来酥脆，行军打仗携带起来也很方便，众将士甚为欢喜，靠着它终于度过了难关。从此，锅盔也便日渐出名，成为流传于民间的一道美食。</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; text-align: left; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_png%2Ficukl6DVUWQmlYH0RsQ3SbjX6icYe5cDGItq0WYpGdGTTxJNxrIo0L60yb4HSes5U3tRNicfib1myXLdfnm3166Oxw%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dpng" data-w="780" data-type="png" data-ratio="0.7666666666666667"></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">锅盔像锅盖，也属陕西八大怪之一，后世人家喻户晓。有诗云：武侯征伐食为天，营造锅魁万世传。敲打成型如满月，酥酥脆脆忒香甜。经过数辈人的加工演变，我们当地烙的锅盔和诸葛亮的“博望锅盔”，还是有着诸多的不同，口感和味道也溶入了太多的本地特色。</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img style="text-align: center;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_png%2Ficukl6DVUWQmlYH0RsQ3SbjX6icYe5cDGI1t7LKicDMojtLlIUdYiayJSCiab7WLrheia3R7oUU3CQ2UfpYLNlp9FuNQ%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dpng" data-w="780" data-type="png" data-ratio="0.676923076923077"></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">朴实的老农们都听过这样一句话：文魁武魁，不如锅盔。可见，以食为天的百姓，已经把锅盔融进了自己的生命。</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img style="width: 561px; height: 363px;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQnEpn23WEBaxvP26PJ2Ips0OTBoj1mCmUaOrM0TFkkbFBibKxkFylGFWDH4hvXkDIe2tF30IDUsDDg%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="400" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.6475" data-cropsely2="363" data-cropsely1="0" data-cropselx2="540" data-cropselx1="0"></p><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">诉不清的故事传说，道不尽的乡俗民风，说不完的锅盔往事。就此住笔吧，我怕我写饿了，会更加的想念锅盔。</span></p><p style="margin: 5px 0px; letter-spacing: 2px;"><img style="z-index: -1; cursor: pointer;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_jpg%2Ficukl6DVUWQmlYH0RsQ3SbjX6icYe5cDGI8EF7c2leZ1DwwcqmiadVOKdmYjrl1RI0XLKVZt2C5mjsTQeCMqmQeIg%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg" data-w="500" data-type="jpeg" data-ratio="0.75"></p></section><section style="margin-top: -9px;"><section style="width: 15px; height: 15px; margin-left: 20px; background-color: rgb(187, 223, 197);"><br></section></section><section style="margin-top: -25px;"><section style="border-radius: 50%; width: 15px; height: 15px; margin-right: -3px; margin-left: auto; box-sizing: border-box; background-color: rgb(236, 197, 197);"><br></section></section></section></section><section data-style-id="23835" data-support="96编辑器"><section style="margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px;"><section style="width: 230.09px; text-align: center; margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto;" data-width="30%"><img style="width: auto;" src="http://app.dafuping.cn/core/attachment/attachment/img?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmbiz.qpic.cn%2Fmmbiz_gif%2FLjib4So7yuWgksQThia86j9iaA1GiceW7kN8QDgFaRrBpyczH7nib52w6zs0kKgq3dKdBtZcibqe9IFVc9eFC8agovjw%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dgif" data-w="580" data-type="gif" data-ratio="0.3103448275862069"></section></section></section></section></section></section></section><section style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); text-transform: none; text-indent: 0px; letter-spacing: normal; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; word-spacing: 0px; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; widows: 2; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;" data-style-id="24888" data-support="96编辑器"><section style="margin-top: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px;"><section style="border-color: rgb(184, 222, 127); border-radius: 4px; border-left-width: 10px; border-left-style: solid; box-sizing: border-box; box-shadow: 2px 2px 4px rgb(153,153,153); background-color: rgb(229, 243, 208);"><section style='background-position: 100% 100%; padding: 13px 13px 20px; width: 757px; box-sizing: border-box; background-image: url("https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_png/Ljib4So7yuWjTw7NPKoCicZeUqUggE3fUQsomNeWaFWuqnMFeTiaTV3heEoTKzhb2lbXR9Mc16ib4IHumSPTQSlkfQ/640?wx_fmt=png"); background-attachment: scroll; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 12%;' data-width="100%"><p style="margin: 10px 0px; text-align: justify; line-height: 2em; letter-spacing: 2px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">作者简介：海棠雨，原名樊阿利，富平县梅家坪人，文字爱好者。《富平人》网会员，南湖书院院士。</span></p></section></section></section></section>
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